Fairhope to Orange Beach, AL

December 21, 2022: I start “Phase 3” of my trip with a solo cruise down Mobile Bay and into the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway.

(continued from At Fairhope, AL)

There was a small craft advisory in Mobile Bay and the Gulf of Mexico that Wednesday morning, so I took my time prepping for the day’s cruise.

The Plan

I couldn’t delay at Fairhope any longer. I had made an appointment to have the house and engine batteries in the boat replaced by an outfit recommended by the Pensacola Ranger Tug dealer (which wasn’t really much of a dealer, in my opinion, because they didn’t offer any service). They wanted me at the Wharf Marina in Orange Beach on the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (Gulf ICW) and I considered myself lucky to get them before Christmas. I certainly wasn’t going to miss this appointment. I needed my battery issues resolved if I expected to start saving money by anchoring out.

I didn’t want to stay at the Wharf. It was expensive — $3.25/foot/night when I was used to paying no more than $1.50. (Little did I know what lay ahead in marina pricing in Florida!) The plan was to stay two nights and get the heck out. I was still behind all my friends and I really did want to catch up.

But with a small craft advisory expiring at around noon and only about 30 miles to cruise, I was in no hurry to leave. I also had to wait for the tide to come in a bit more — the fuel dock was in low water. I packed up slowly and eventually cast off, repositioning to the fuel dock where I took on 80 gallons of fuel — my first fueling since arriving at Demopolis the previous week — and had the waste tank pumped out. I went into the office and settled by bill. Then, with no real reason to stick around, I headed out into Mobile Bay.

It was noon.

I admit it: I’m fascinated by pelicans. Here’s one at the entrance to marina as I was leaving. This shot is not zoomed in; he was close. In the background, you can see the sunken boat I mentioned in the previous post.

The Cruise

Understand that although this was the first time soloing on Do It Now on the Loop, it was not the first time I’d soloed. In fact, most of the cruising I’d done on the boat in Washington State had been on my own with just my pups for company. Sure, I’d driven from Olympia to Kingston with a boat captain on board to help me learn the basics on the way to the Ranger/Cutwater Rendezvous at San Juan Island in September. I’d also spent about 90 minutes with another captain learning how to anchor and catch a mooring ball. But the rest of my pre-Loop time on board — more than 30 hours — had been solo around Puget Sound. That included solo docking at several marinas, as well as mooring ball practice. I had no trouble handling the boat alone for casting off, maneuvering in close quarters, cruising, or docking in a variety of conditions.

The big difference was that I didn’t have someone to talk to or share the things I was seeing with. But I also didn’t have to worry about a companion getting worked up (or sick) in rough water or concerns about things like “small craft advisories,” which, as I learned, often apply in the Gulf and not in the Gulf ICW.

Mobile Bay was not calm, but it wasn’t any rougher than what I’d experienced in Puget Sound on my first solo day. The boat handles well in rough water, especially if its either on the bow or stern. That day, the waves were on the starboard stern so there was some rocking and rolling going on. But I only had about 20 miles to do in Mobile Bay before I’d link up with the Gulf ICW, which would be much more sheltered — almost like a canal. So I dealt with it. Everything was secured and nothing went flying. My pups, as usual, slept on the big bench seat beside me.

The only notes I have for that part of the trip is my RPM/speed/fuel burn: 2200 RPM, 8.1 kts, 5.2 gph, and 1.5 nmpg. Clearly, I was getting a bit of a push.

I entered the Gulf ICW’s channel at 2:40 PM. I immediately saw my first dolphins of the trip.

I reached the Wharf at 3:45 PM. I called on the radio to find out where I was supposed to go. The marina was large and straddled the area under a high causeway bridge. It had enormous yachts parked in it.

I took photos of some of the huge yachts parked at the marina that evening on my last pup walk of the day. I thought these were ginormous — until I got to Sarasota.

I was told to turn in just past the fuel dock and given a slip number. It was a really long slip that could have fit two of me. I pulled into the end just as a dockhand appeared to help me secure the boat. Then he told me where the office was and disappeared.

Here’s the Nebo log for December 21, 2022. Download a PDF log file with more info. Track Do It Now on Nebo.

Checking In, Settling In

After shutting down everything in the boat, hooking up power, and double-checking the lines, I grabbed the dog leashes, put my pups on the dock, and headed out to the office. It was quite a walk. (I later learned that the office, restrooms, and laundry room were nearly 1/4 mile away. I did say it was a big marina, didn’t I?)

Along the way, I passed a breezeway that led out to a shopping center with shops and a Ferris wheel. At night, it would be all lit up. Now, on a Wednesday afternoon just a few days before Christmas, about half the parking spots were filled.

Here’s the shopping area from the marina that evening. It looked festive but wasn’t the least bit crowded.

Inside the office, I was given a 13-page lease agreement to sign and asked for my boat registration and proof of insurance. This was the first time anyone had asked for any paperwork on the boat. I had to go back to the boat for both. I actually didn’t have proof of insurance but a call to my insurance broker had it emailed to me as a PDF within 20 minutes; the marina office printed a copy for me so I’d have it for future use. (No one has asked for it since.)

I’d been told that I could save 75¢ per foot per day if I joined AGLCA. I did not want to join AGLCA, but I soon realized that with a 3-night stay, I’d save enough at the marina to cover the cost of membership. So I joined. (And yes, I already regret it.)

I got an electronic key on a lanyard that would get me into the lounge with its rest rooms and laundry rooms. I was warned that if I didn’t return the key, my credit card would be charged $150. I checked this marina guest space. It was very nice — as it should be, considering what the place cost.

Too bad they were so far away from my boat.

I walked back to the boat with my pups. I hadn’t had to leash them yet and that was a good thing. There was a grassy area just off the dock where they could run around without me having to worry about them bothering people or getting hit by a car. Oddly, although the marina seemed just about full of boats, there was no one around.

I got the extra paperwork the marina needed and trekked back to the office to hand it over. Then I walked back to the boat. I didn’t realize it then, but I’d already walked a mile since arriving an hour before.

And, as it turned out, I’d be staying there a whole week.